The Lyretail Killifish is available in two distinct colour morphs – the ‘gold’ aquarium cultivated form (pictured above) and the ‘chocolate’ wild strain. This is a peaceful species that is best maintained as a single male-female pair in a small softwater aquarium with a good amount of bogwood and planting. Peat filtration is highly recommended. Other small, peaceful community fish with the same requirements can be safely kept alongside this species e.g. pencilfish, Corydoras species, Kuhli loaches, Croaking/Sparkling Gouramis etc. Water movement within the aquarium should be gentle to mimic the slow moving waters that these fish inhabit in the wild. Surface cover in the form of floating plants will be much appreciated, and do ensure that the aquarium has tight fitting coverslides as these fish are accomplished jumpers. Aphyosemion australe is not a seasonal species, and is highly recommended as a killifish suitable for hobbyists new to keeping this family of fish. May also be seen on sale as the Cape Lopez Lyretail or Lyretail Panchax.
Feeding
Small frozen foods such as mosquito larvae, daphnia, cyclops, baby brineshrimp, brineshrimp etc. Can be shy at feeding times, so ensure that tankmates are not too boisterous and check that your killifish are receiving their fair share of the food.
Breeding
A separate unlit aquarium should be used for breeding purposes, as killifish eggs are light sensitive. This tank should be at least 18” in length and like the main tank should be well covered. The water should be very soft (dH < 6 degrees, pH: <6.0) and the temperature kept within the preferred range. Higher temperatures may either cause the fish to cease spawning or result in the eggs not developing. A gentle air-driven sponge filter should be used, and the aquarium furnished with floating plants and spawning mops. Best results are obtained when the sides, back and base of the aquarium are covered with a dark material (black aquarium background is ideal) and the tank positioned somewhere that does not receive a lot of natural light. The use of Blackwater Extract can help to impart a tea-coloured tinge to the water, which also reduces the light level. Before the spawning attempt is made, it is a good idea to condition the males and females separately and in aquaria with a slightly lower temperature to that of the spawning tank. When ready, carefully acclimatise 1 male and 2 or 3 females across to the breeding aquarium. Spawning will take place near to the surface of the water, with eggs laid one at a time and which attach to the spawning mops or floating plants via an adhesive thread. Up to 50 eggs per female may be laid per day (although 20 is more of an average), with the spawning process typically occurring over two weeks. In most cases, the adults do not prey on the eggs if well fed, so they can be left in the spawning aquarium until you see fit to remove them. However, if you do wish to move the eggs to another rearing tank, they are surprisingly robust and can be hand-picked off the mops/plants. It is actually very wise to intervene after 5 days or so, removing the fish so that the females may be rested and brought back into condition. The addition of an anti fungal product to the tank containing the eggs is recommended at this point, and remember to keep the tank in darkness. If any eggs do start to fungus (turn white and fluffy) remove them as soon as possible with a pipette in order to prevent it from spreading to other eggs. The eggs can be expected to hatch after 14 days (temperature dependant) and once their yolk sacs have been consumed, the fry may be started on tiny foodstuffs such as infusoria. Ensure frequent partial water changes are carefully carried out (match the temperature, pH and hardness of the new water to that of the old).
